Hiking Above The Clouds, Usambara Mountains, Tanzania

(These blog entries run in chronological order from the bottom of the page)











Today, we get up very early. A few us leave at 8AM to go on a hike. The sun is shining and the air is reasonably cool for this hour. As soon as the sun rose higher, it began to get very hot. We ascend the mountain along a dusty rust road. Along the way we meet a woman who is outside a very small brick building. She is holding a large green fruit. It's skin has a prickly texture. We pay her for a piece of the fruit. She cuts it open with a machete. It's a jackfruit. We're given oil to rub onto our hands before touching the fruit. This is because the centre of the fruit contains a glue like substance. It tastes like a combination of a number of tropical fruits. Mango, banana and pineapple. It tastes nicer than it smells. It's very chewy also. We have chai tea inside the tiny building, then continue walking in the sweltering heat for another four hours until we arrive at the Irente cheese farm.

A Norwegian lady owns and runs the cheese farm. We have lunch in the shade here, at wooden tables under a canopy. Lunch consists of quark (a soft type of cheese containing garlic and herbs), various other types of cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, fresh homemade soda bread and passion fruit juice. I'm distracted by a rhinoceros beetle. It reminds me of very tiny dinosaur. On our hike in the Usambara mountains, we also discover an amazing view from a cliff edge which overlooks the vast Maasai steppe. We're as high as the few welcome clouds and it's breathtaking.

In Lushoto town, which is down the hill from the hotel, I post some postcards. I see prisoners being marched into the prison - the main door of which leads onto the main street. I run into a couple of more people from the main group. We wander through a large bustling market, where people tailor clothes on the spot.. there's fruit.. vegetables. It's a busy place. We take a short cut back to the hotel. We get a little bit lost and end up on the back streets of a hilly poorer part of town. We do get some strange glances from the locals. We make it back. The second night we stay in the Usambara Mountains, I pay $20 for a room in the hotel. I have a four poster bed and a spacious room to myself. No tent for me tonight. Luxury.

Kilimanjaro At Dawn

I wake up early. It's still twilight outside and the grass is damp with dew. A small group of us follow one of the locals along the rain-forest paths. We arrive at the top of a narrow path. In the distance, is a clear view of Mount Kilimanjaro, in it's snow peaked glory. It's awe inspiring. The clouds lay low at dawn. We admire the view for a few minutes. The sun rises and casts pink and yellow shades across the mountain. The clouds rise up quickly and swallow the mountain, shrouding it in mystery. It was a privilege to see it.

We go back to the campsite. An incredible breakfast awaits. There's a stack of warm pancakes in a metal saucepan. We eat these with very small bananas (known as monkey bananas) and mango jam. Delicious. We drink Kilimanjaro tea from china tea cups. We leave to go on a long hike. We visit a local school. We visit vocational training rooms (for carpentry, masonry and tailoring training). The tailoring room contains old fashioned singer sewing machines - similar to ones I used in school. Wild chameleons are common. In the garden, outside one of the workshops, I hold one. It's funny to watch it change colours when it's placed on top of different people's clothing.

We find an amazing waterfall, whilst on the hike. There's a tiny steep path and a series of stepping stones to gain access to it. Some of the group wait at the top of it. I jump in, with my clothes on. It's so refreshing in the scorching day. I would definitely do it again. We continue hiking until we get to a small village. We have lunch there. Lentil stew, a different kind of banana stew (instead of being smooth, it has large chunks in it), potatoes and bitter mango. We walk dusty roads through the rain-forest to a craft centre, selling local handmade goods. We drive to our next destination, the Usambara Mountains, which are five hours away. These mountains are located between Kilimanjaro and the Indian Ocean.

We stay at Lawn's hotel, one of Africa's oldest hotels, in Lushoto. It's set on a hill, surrounded by mountains and rich scenery. Our guide tells us of how the owner is quite eccentric. He sometimes wanders around with a shotgun. Apparently. I hope this is just a legend. We set up camp in the lawns of Lawn's hotel for the first night here. We have chickpea and mushroom stew and pasta for dinner. The moon is full tonight and it illuminates the gardens. Inside the hotel, the bar area is furnished with enormous wooden chairs. A few lucky people were able to stay indoors tonight. The rest of us retire to our tents.

Marangu - Camping In The Cloud Forrest

The next day we stop at Arusha. I wander around by myself. There's a large market selling tropical fruit. I have a Zanzibar coffee (spiced with cloves) in a really tiny quaint coffee shop. We visit the Amani Children's Home, which is a home for orphans and street children. I brought some origami paper all the way from Ireland for this visit. Out of the 90+ children that are there, only five are girls. So few girls are there because on the streets, boys can do manual labor. The only option for females is prostitution. Often girls will withstand harsh conditions at home instead of running away due to the only alternative.

The Amani Children's home is enormous. There's a large garden full of bright orange and yellow flowers, at the front. The inside is spacious and simple. There's a painting of an elephant in the entrance hall. A boy plays a turquoise guitar, sitting on one of the couches. Another does a series of backflips. We get shown around the home. We see the classrooms and where the children sleep. The rooms are clean but quite bare. Some have cement floors. We wander outside where an epic football game ensues. We donate around $40 dollars each.

Next, we drive to Marangu. This is a tiny village in the Kilimanjaro region. We're camping in the rain-forest, just up the hill from the main village. The truck goes up a very narrow road which appears to be too small for such a vehicle. At one stage, there's a steep cliff to the left. We're so close to the edge. As I look out the window, I'm unable to see the ground at all. It's a terrifying moment. We continue upwards, through the banana trees and dense rain-forest. We stop at a clearing. It has started drizzling. We're surrounded by lush green vegetation. We walk over a small bridge, to cross the river. Local women appear and help carry some of the heavy camping gear, balancing it on top of their heads. Bizarrely, the local men are nowhere to be seen.

We eat an incredible African feast. The best food I've had so far on the trip. It's made by the local Chagga people. Roast yam, roast potatoes, banana stew, beans, rice, maize, salad and pineapple. The camping area is narrow. It's spread over different tiers, with steps linking the different levels. The moon is almost full. After a cup of hot African tea, I go to sleep. I plan to get up at 4.30AM, in hope of catching a glimpse of Mount Kilimanjaro at dawn. It's the only time when the mountain isn't immersed by clouds.

Camping In The Snake Park

The next morning, we drive back through the flat plains of the Serengeti. We drive right through the migrating herds of wildebeest. We go around the rim of the Ngorongoro crater, instead of through it, this time. One of the jeeps breaks down near a Masai village. The houses there are made out of straw and mud. The Masai approach us, carrying spears. One of them (who looks like a gangster Masai from the mud hut hood), sells me a bracelet made from acacia seeds and turquoise beads. It's one of the only occasions I can take a photo of the Masai. The watch that Phill gave me was being highly sought after. I'm offered an elaborately beaded ceremonial staff for it. I keep the watch. One Masai proposed. He wanted me to become his fifth wife and live in their village with them. The jeep is up and running again. We leave the village. No women have been kidnapped. The roads along the Ngorongoro rim we are driving on are rust coloured and flanked by lush green jungle at either side.

We arrive at our next campsite. It's a snake park. It has one pub named Ma's Bar (with the sign being a rip off of the Mars Bar logo). The pub is richly decorated with items from all over the world. People visiting here did the creative interior design. Photographs, t-shirts, post cards, drawings. Something very similar to Pink Floyd's 'Echoes' plays in the background. The pub is quiet. The owner (a.k.a 'Ma') shows us a book of photographs detailing the development of the snake park/ pub - the album goes right back to the seventies. A second door leads out the back of the pub. Many poisonous snakes, crocodiles and birds are in a bizarre zoo outside. I feel sorry for them. This evening, we camp in the snake park. The ground is hard and it's difficult to put the pegs in for the tents. I use a hammer. We eat dinner. It was only as I was finishing, I notice in the torch light, that many tiny black insects are crawling at the edge of the plate. I've no idea how many I actually ate, as I had been eating in mainly darkness. Mmm.

Surrounded By Hyenas At Night In The Wilderness

I wake up at 4.30AM. I can hear so many different sounds. Crickets, frogs and various insects. There's a roar in the distance. I sit for a while, taking all of this in. I open my tent and allow my eyes to adjust. When I hear more tents being unzipped, I move out. The stars are so bright. They're incredible. The night sky is comparable to the one I once saw in the North Sea, if not better. Jeeps collect us at 5.15 AM, to take us to the balloons. I'm in the front seat.

Hippopotamuses cross in front of the jeep. This is the only time that I will get to see wild hippos out of the water. They're enormous, bulky animals, but beautiful nonetheless. We drive onwards and arrive at the make shift airfield. The sky is slowly brightening. It's a deep red colour right now. Three yellow and green balloons are being inflated. To climb into the balloon, the basket is turned on it's side. It's divided into eight compartments. We crouch down, horizontally. The balloon becomes more inflated. Slowly, the basket turns upright. We take off.





The sun breaks free of the horizon. Perfect timing. It's stunning. The crimson palette of the sky changes to dazzling oranges and yellows. Two baboons run along the Serengeti plains below us. We see giraffes, bat eared foxes, lots of hippos (now bathing in the water), buffalos and a huge herd of elephants. Every so often, the pilot inflates the balloon more. There are times when there's just complete silence. No engine. No noise. It's wonderful. The flames which keep the balloon afloat, keep me warm.







We land in the long grass. We ride in jeeps to another part of the Serengeti, just minutes away. Champagne and orange juice in the dazzling sunshine while the pilot recites various historic facts about balloon flying. The Montgolfiere brothers built the first balloon in 1783. The brothers placed animals in a balloon (a sheep, a duck and a rooster) and flew it in front of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI and the French court. Later that year, the first humans would ride in balloons.

Next, we drive onwards towards a large acacia tree. It's breakfast time. Long tables are dressed with white linen, golden napkins and silverware. It's a contrast to eating around a campfire. We walk towards the tables. A man wearing a turban greets us. He pours a large jug of hot water into a metal hammered bowl. We individually wash our hands here.





For breakfast, I eat tomatoes, sauteed potatoes, mushrooms and beans. The bread rolls are soft and still warm. They are being freshly baked meters away in a stone oven. I also eat water melon and the best pineapple I've ever tasted. I see the same large herd of elephants we saw earlier from the balloon passing in the distance while drinking coffee from a china tea cup. The matriarch follows the herd from behind. What a view to have breakfast to. I meet some people who are from Frankfurt Zoo and are trying to find out ways to reduce poaching in the Serengeti. It makes me think about what I'm doing with my life and what I could do.

We make our way back to camp. I ask the driver why there are dark blue and black flags hanging off certain trees along the roadside. They're the same colour as the top I'm wearing. He explains that these colours attract the tsetse flies. The trees on which the flags hang are poisoned. Fantastic!. I'm a human magnet for tsetse flies, which like to feed on vertebrates and cause sleeping sickness!. Of all the tops I could have worn that day...

Along the way, many antelope cross the road as we approach the campsite. We have a few hours here to relax. I change out of my tsetse fly top. A random sudden downpour of rain comes out of nowhere. It disappears quickly and the sun comes out again. I hear from the local guides that last night, hyenas had been through the camp and lions had just been meters away. I'm both intrigued and skeptical. Are these just legends they entertain tourists with?. Lions and hyenas close to our tents. Surely not.

We go on another safari in the evening time. It's much cooler at this time of day. We see lions lying on tree branches along the way. We also see leopards doing the same. Three curious lion cubs stare at us from their tree. Two hyena cubs are stretched out on the road, blocking it. They refuse to move and just look at the jeeps as a mild inconvenience. We drive around them. Many people dislike hyenas, but I think they're wonderful. Standing on top of the front seat, with the roof taken off the jeep... zooming along the open dusty roads, feels like flying.





We return to camp. A few of us walk near the long grass in search of a galago (also known as a bush baby). It's a tiny nocturnal type of primate. We see movement as we shine the torches out towards the long grass and trees. Something is out there. Gleaming orange eyes are caught in the torch light. The animal disappears. Our African guides later tell us it was a leopard.

Dusk becomes night. Back at camp, we light a fire and have dinner around it. Bats swoop overhead and circle around, barely visible against the dark sky. Being curious about the rumours of hyenas the night before, I decide to stay up late, around the campfire. Niamh, Barry, Nick and Gavin stay up too. Isaiah, a driver remains with us. Isaiah's hearing and sight are incredibly well developed. He silently points towards a dark area beyond the campfire. The grass rustles and we shine our torches over there. Yellow eyes are illuminated.

It's a pack of hyenas. They are hungry and have come searching for food. They stare over, unflinching, for a little while. They then retreat. We do not move. We hear them calling out. Isaiah explains that they're calling for more hyenas to join them. Lovely. At this point, I'm not scared due to Isaiah's calmness. However, I am very surprised. Here we are in literally the middle of nowhere, with a pack of wild hyenas standing a short distance away calling their friends. There are no guns or spears. Soon, there is only three of us left at the campfire. The others go to bed. A lightening storm is taking place high in the air, within a cloud, in the distance. It looks really cool. Isaiah, Nick and I go on a walk around the perimeter of the campsite, where the long grass is. We haven't seen the hyenas in a while. Isaiah is armed with a beer bottle. It starts to drizzle. Thunder sounds. We see shapes crossing the campsite. It's the hyenas. They're back. I follow them. Suddenly, lightning illuminates the entire campsite for a split second. It's so bright. There's a hyena a few meters in front of me!!. They're timid creatures tonight. Luckily. The hyena nearby reminds me of a bear. It's fur is thick and long. It's posture is quite hunched over. What an amazing experience.

Into The Volcano To Visit The Lions...

The next morning, we divide into groups and leave the campsite in six seater jeeps. Soon, we're driving around the outer rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. This enormous ancient extinct volcanic crater is a UNESCO world heritage centre and it's full of life. At the rim, the temperature dramatically drops. Based on archaeological evidence, hominid species (apes etc) have occupied the area for at least three million years. Europeans only discovered it's existence in 1892.

School children wearing uniforms consisting of dark and light shades of green walk at the edge of the road. None of the girls have long hair. Some have their hair braided very tightly to their head. Ahead of us is open road and mountainous terrain. A line of dark clouds sits on the horizon. After driving for a while, a troop of baboons partially blocks the road head. We maneuver around them and we reach the entrance to Ngorongoro Crater. Past the gateway, we are soon greeted with even greater incredible sights.

Ancient forrest and jungle stretch across the terrain. We are still ascending at this point, along a winding dirt track. The ancient landscape is something which has to be seen with your own eyes. No camera could ever do it justice. Ferns pave the roadside. The trees in the cloud forrest are really unusual and tropical, with leaves of all shapes and sizes. The driver suddenly slows down and then stops. There's a pride of lions in the long grass, right at the edge of the road. One retreats into the undergrowth. The others hold their ground. It's the first time I stare right into the eyes of a wild lion which is just a couple of meters away. So placid, yet fierce.

For a while, we are above the clouds. The road begins to descend now. Soon, we're below the clouds again. We pass some trees which have had their branches broken. Our driver explains this is where elephants have crossed. A blue sky stretches ahead now. We pass Masai warriors who are only armed with spears, walking along the road. They're walking in the direction of the lions we recently passed. We enter the main floor of the crater. It's very flat there. Elephants with long ivory tusks look almost prehistoric. The crater is truly magical. It's a very wide open space, with various creatures roaming around. Lions, ostriches, wildebeest, hartebeest, Thompson's gazelle, Grant's gazelle, great crowned cranes, rhinoceros, flamingos and more.



We eat lunch at the edge of a swamp. Hippopotamuses are relaxing nearby in the cool water. It's safe to walk around here, but we were warned about eating lunch inside the jeeps. As we were doing so, we soon find out why. Some other tourists who hadn't taken such precautions get attacked by kites (hungry birds). One poor guy had most of his sandwich snatched right out of his hands. These people kept trying to get away from them, but the birds kept diving for them. It was great lunch time entertainment.

Within the Ngorongoro crater lies Lake Magadi. It's a salty alkaline lake which attracts a huge number of flamingos. The pink becomes a blur through the warm air. We see warthogs and hyenas. MJ tells us about how a hyena's method of hunting is called 'an ugly kill'. Because they're more scavengers than hunters, if they catch live prey, they'll start with the angles to stop the creature from being able to escape. The animal will still be alive for a while. At this point I couldn't have imagined what we'd be doing a couple of nights later...

We see herds of buffalo. They're larger than the wildebeest. Out of all the various creatures, it is the buffalo the Masai fear the most. The reason for this is that they will automatically charge, if caught by surprise. Buffalo are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and are responsible for hundreds of human deaths each year. Just as we are driving towards the other side of the Ngorongoro crater's rim, on route to the Serengeti, we have the great privilege of seeing a lone cheetah, which is a rare sight. It's very elegant.

We drive up the winding roads out of the crater. On the outer rim of the Ngorogoro crater, we see giraffes again (there are none on the crater floor). They stand out clearly, towering over the low lying foliage. There are few trees where we are now. We see camels being looked after by the Masai. We hear of more Masai traditions. Masai boys are trained at a young age to become warriors. When they're around thirteen years old, a group of them will go together to kill a lion, using only their spears. Whichever boy is deemed the bravest and most fierce warrior is given the Lion's mane and is honored as a hero.

Soon, we are at the edge of the Serengeti. We stop here for a little while. There's a tiny shop. The local supermarket. It's a hut. I purchase a pineapple here. Bizarrely, it also has Cadbury's chocolate. On top of a rocky outcrop (which boasts many aloe vera plants), is a view which stretches right across the Serengeti. It's so vast. I see zebras. Thousands of them. Over a million wildebeest wander across the land. They're strong and powerful. The annual migration. It's breathtaking.







The Serengeti is incredibly flat. It's a huge, wide open space. Translated, it means 'endless plains'. Which is very appropriate. The road we are on now is dusty and in a straight line, stretching for miles. A bull elephant stands right at the edge of the road, bemused by us humans. I can see the detail on it's skin. The sky is completely blue. The driver really starts to accelerate at this point. Due to being distracted by the wonderful creatures, we're running late. We have to check in for the balloon ride which is hopefully happening tomorrow morning, all going well (it's very subject to weather conditions). The balloon centre was due to close at 6PM. It is now already after six. We meet another jeep on the road. The drivers exchange some words in Swahili. Next, we're driving off the beaten track as the sun is setting. There's a leopard lying on a tree branch. The pattern on the Leopard's fur is similar to that of a cheetah, but the spots aren't completely solid. It's not phased by us at all. It's a privilege to see the leopard in it's truly natural habitat.

After some negotiation, we do get to check in at the balloon centre (it had closed!). We then move on to the campsite. Few others are camping here. The campsite itself is unfenced. Wild animals are free to pass through as they please. We set up our tents in the darkness. I have a tent to myself at the edge of our newly established tent village. My tent is facing the vast wilderness. I look out towards the long grass, wondering what might be lurking just meters away.

Awoken by The Sound Of African Drumming In The Night... Let's Follow it...

We drive further into Tanzania. We stop at our next campsite. The vibrant green grass is a contrast to the rust coloured dusty road leading into the site. Different buildings are laid out throughout the campsite, between the trees. The pub is richly furnished with carved furniture, lamps and warm fabrics. It has a colonial feel. I wander into the craft shop. There's a camera crew filming the lady who is working there. That night, after I go to bed, I hear the sound of African drumming. It's dark outside and the sky is starry. I put on clothes over my pajamas and follow the sounds of the drumming. It's surreal. As I walk up a path, I can see African dancers, drummers and singers at the end of a long lawn. I'm on my own. There's no one else around at that moment. Some more of the group approach a few minutes later and we watch the traditional entertainment together.

The Cradle Of Mankind, The Great Rift Valley

While travelling through Tanzania, we also visit the Oldupai Gorge (which is also known as the cradle of mankind). Louis and Mary Leakey were pioneering archaeologists here in the 1930's. The site was once a large lake. The Oldupai Gorge contains important palaeoanthropological findings regarding the evolution of humans.

Tribal People

Today, we explore banana plantations near the campsite at Mto Wa Mbu. We trek on the soft path between the banana trees. Every part of the banana tree is used by the locals for building houses, providing food and exports, as well as in the banana beer making process. We visit a local tribal village. A man sits in the shade carving an ebony statue. Ebony is the most expensive wood. It's very dark in colour. Only the men are allowed to wood carve. The women have the task of making roofs out of banana leaves. It is in this village, I start my collection of tribal masks. The masks are traditionally used by boys in coming of age ceremonies. The carvings completely intrigue me.

We visit rice fields and see the different stages of the rice growth and production. We see how banana beer is fermented. A jug gets passed around for a taste testing session. One of my favourite places in Mto Wa Mbu is the local artists' group. They create work outdoors and finished work is spread out in a gallery within the jungle. It's the best art gallery I've ever seen. We visit a school and the children here are completely fascinated with my hair and they all want to touch it. Lots of tiny hands clawing at me. They sing us a song. The children are mesmerized by the view finder of my camera. They adore us taking photographs of them.







We trek through the jungle, up a hill. The shade makes little difference to the heat. We reach a clearing. The locals have prepared us lunch. We sit at a long table. Ethnic patterned table clothes are laid out. Above us, in the trees, avocados can be seen growing. A meaty feast is brought out. Vegetarianism doesn't exist here. I have some red banana. This tastes similar to a normal banana, but much sweeter and more ripe. A man cycles up the hill, carrying a Coca-Cola crate on the back of his bicycle. Within it are much needed ice cool drinks. I pay him in Tanzanian Shillings for a bottle of pineapple Fanta. He also was selling passion fruit Fanta. Hens and other fowl walk about freely and jump/fly up to the roofs of the small huts.

Soon we leave Mto Wa Mbu behind.

The River of Mosquitoes

The next morning, we leave for the Tanzanian border. There's a crash on the main road outside of Nairobi. Chaos ensues. Order and queueing are non existent. Our bus was so very close to falling over as we tried to get around the crash. Half of the bus had to go off the road to go forward. It seriously was at a 45° angle at one stage and we were trying to balance it with ourselves. It was a huge relief to be clear of it.

We pass through tiny villages and towns on the way to Tanzania. Rather bizarrely, beauty and hair salons are some of the most frequent types of businesses we see. We pass a donkey car wash. Or perhaps it was a donkey wash for donkeys. It shall remain one of life's mysteries. We arrive at Namanga and cross the border on foot. It's 12.55pm and the African sun is high in the sky and is scorchingly hot. After visas have been issued, we drive towards Mount Longido. We stop for lunch at the base of this rocky mountain. Giant butterflies flutter about. We make our own lunch by chopping up fresh vegetables and putting together sandwiches. The locals are out to see the eating habits of passing Mzungos. The locals are beautifully dressed in colourful ethnic attire.

I would love to have taken more photographs of Africa's people. However, many expect payment for the photos you take. Stories of people not paying and getting spears thrown towards them may just be a legend. I decided not to test the theory too much. Tourists paying locals for photographs apparently encourages begging and an unhealthy dependency. After lunch we hear of traditions from our guide, MJ and how it's not unusual for men in Tanzania to have at least six wives.

Parts of Tanzania are very green. Light green, dark green, yellow and navy. We are greeted by excited waving smiling children in Arusha. We eventually arrive in Mto Wa Mbu. Translated, this means 'The River of Mosquitoes'. We set up camp here at dusk. Leeches, cockroaches and some sort of huge black slow flying insects are abundant here. I try never to harm insects, but when one of those giant black ones is flying towards you with a vengeance, a torch can be used efficiently as a baseball bat. The tent I pitched up with help from fellow travelers was cosy. It rained that night. The next morning, while having a shower, a huge butterfly with large eye patterns on it's wings, remained.

Carnivore

When I meet the Intrepid Group for the first time, I'm glad that the $820 kitty money I has been carrying had survived. The group are really friendly. Two more Irish people - Niamh and Barry - are part of it. We go to the Carnivore restaurant that night. This is inside Nairobi's national park. Traditionally, lion and other game would have been served here. Nowadays, ostrich and crocodile and other beasts are on the menu instead. The meat is roasted on Masai swords over an open fire/ pit in full view of the diners. You can eat as much as you like. Luckily, vegetarians are catered for too. The tables are outside under a canopy. African sounds chirp away in the background. It's beautifully done.

Nairobi

The hotel reminds me of a time warp. The wall paper consists of large patterned prints and is reminiscent of the seventies. I become acquainted with my mosquito net for the first time. It's important to make sure that the net itself doesn't touch your skin, as the mosquitoes can stick their heads through, but not their thoraces. I wake up early the next morning. I quickly learn that an alarm clock is not needed in Africa. A spectacular chorus breaks at dawn. I discover the balcony outside a large set of glass sliding doors which stretch the entire way across the room and from the ceiling to the floor. My bedroom is on the second floor and I can see the pool, some unusual trees and many birds that I have never seen before. I find breakfast which consists of freshly made pancakes and fresh fruit. Passion fruit, pineapple and mango.

After breakfast I sit on the balcony in my room for a while. Listening to new sounds. Breathing in new smells. I roughly sketch what I can see. In the distance large aves silhouettes can be seen soaring. I can't be sure if they're vultures or eagles. The white sky behind them ensures they stay incognito. I had booked a taxi, but it was late. I take another one instead. The name of the taxi driver eludes me, so he shall from here-forth be known as Mamello. Mamello used to work as a tour guide and taught me some Swahili along the way. We laughed at my pronunciation. We drove to the baby elephant orphanage in Nairobi National Park. It's a charity funded by donations. Each elephant has a story. Many have been rescued due to their mothers being slaughtered for the Ivory trade. We arrive just at feeding time, where the rangers hold up enormous bottles of milk for the orphan elephant calves.

A family of warthogs crosses in front of the taxi as we leave. We then go to the Giraffe centre where I hand feed giraffes and get really close to the beautiful creatures. They are such laid back calm animals. They have a lot of land to roam across which is all part of Nairobi's national park.







Mamello waits for me at each location. We had to call to three different petrol stations as the first ones were out of fuel. Along the way, he tells me tragic stories of past violence which I dare not even write here. We drive past Kibera, one of Africa's largest slums. We pass the edge of a labyrinth of alleyways, adjacent to the main road, leading into the inner urban slum. I have to be discreet about looking in it's direction at all. Taking photographs this close is neither safe nor respectful. Huts at either side of the lane-ways are made from sheets of corrugated tin. Leaning against these huts are rows of men drinking from tin cans. Shots of whiskey and methadone. Mzungo (pronounced mmm-zung-goo) is a term I'd frequently hear. It's slang for a white person. Mzungos are not welcome in Kibera according to Mamello. Seeing this slum sends a shiver down my spine.

Mamello eventually drops me off at a Masai market at the edge of Nairobi. I'm completely alone now in another world surrounded by locals. It's wonderful. Ethnic jewelry, beads, Masai carvings, African masks and bowls create a colorful sight. Two men keep trying to sell me two Masai warriors. I want to purchase these from tribes in small villages instead, but politely declining doesn't go down well. They keep following me and by the time I'm surrounded by three of them, I am somewhat intimidated. I still haggle though. The carved warriors would later find a place at either side of my computer at work. The sellers at the market are more interested in trading their goods for western items instead of money. One wanted to swop an African bracelet for my beloved black wrist band which is adorned with metal spikes and skulls.

The Adventure Begins...

Last year I spent a few weeks in Africa. I kept a journal. Much of it was written while travelling along dusty goat and pot hole filled roads. Occasionally, I was completely thrown into the air, right off the seat if the pothole had leveled up to crater status. Since this trip, my car just seems to attract goats in Ireland these days. They like throwing themselves in front of it. It's taken me a year to get around to typing this journal up. The dates are slightly out for this blog - they're mainly there just to keep it nicely organised.

I went to the airport at 7 AM. My flight was at 10. Heathrow Terminal 5 can only be described as a maze with the addition of giant escalators which rise up over five floors at a time. My last breakfast in the concrete jungle consisted of porridge smothered in strawberries, which I ate at the aptly named Giraffe restaurant. After I passed through security I stocked up on even more mosquito defence.

Sitting in the waiting area before boarding my flight, the announcements of departures to exotic locations echo out. A black Labrador sniffs it's way through the queue to the departure gate. It misses my rucksack full of bodies and drugs.

Next, I'm on the plane. Free stuff!. A blanket, headphones and more. I gaze out through the window. My first glimpse of Africa showed it to be a rather green continent. Soon, the panorama changes to the Libyan desert. Sand dunes and deep ridges reach far out to the horizon 37,000 feet below. It takes hours for the plane to break free of it. I spy through my binoculars for potential nomads, but the hostile environment is all I see. It's vastness is mesmerizing. The patterns and contours of the wind swept sands are beautiful.

As we pass over Sudan, I see the Darfur mountains in the distance. I'm glad there aren't any Janjaweed this high in the air. *hopefully*. Darkness has fallen when we get close to Nairobi. A black void appears in between thousands of tiny lights. It's the national park. Soon the plane lands. I'm really in Africa. The land my grand aunt lived in for roughly thirty years and inspired me about it since I was little. Even though Nairobi is 5,500 feet high in altitude, the night air is a wall of heat as I emerge into the African summer. I eventually get through the VISA queue (seriously - never sit at the back of the plane if you don't have a VISA!!). However, time queuing was worth it for this rather last minute trip to Africa. I get a Taxi to the Hotel Milimani.